Few things reflect the ethnic heritage of a region more than its national costume.
Puan, which can be simply described as a piece of cloth worn like a skirt, is the national dress of the state of Mizoram, and has always been woven by Mizo women.
Traditionally, puans were two pieces, woven separately on backstrap looms and later sewn together.
With the introduction of fly shuttle looms, puans are now woven as single piece of cloth and worn by the women of the state. As per Mizo custom, cotton grown in the jhums was collected, ginned and spun to make yarns. Natural raw cotton was used and the yarns were dyed using vegetables, once dyeing came into vogue.
More than 30 varieties of puans exist today, with different tribes having their own versions, each differentiated by their motifs and stripes to mark cultural significances. Puans have always been woven by women and it is a part of a woman’s wedding trousseau.
A plain puan usually takes about two days to complete, but the ones with complex motifs can take more than a month.
The most popular varieties of puan are the Puanchei, Hmaram and Thihni.
Colour-blocked Puanchei
The puanchei is made of strips of yarns in white, red, black and green that are warped on the loom. The transverse bold stripes in solid colour running through the stripes of colours serve as decoration.
The traditional designs such as lenbuangthuam (a type of tree), disul (swaying reeds) and sakeizkngzia (tiger stripes) are woven as extra weft. Traditionally worn on festive occasions by the chief’s family, and later on for the Cheraw dance (bamboo dance), this used to be a puan worn by men. Originally known as Puanlaisen, thanks to the bold red colour that runs through the centre of the white puan, today it has evolved with new additions to its designs and colour. The Puanchei is truly a testimony of the Mizo women’s creativity.
Intricate Hmaram
The Hmaram is a short but very intricate puan, about 17 by 42 inches in size. It usually features exclusive motifs like the Kawkpuizikzial (coiled tender ferns), the lenbuangthuam and disul. It is worn with a petticoat underneath, called puanfen, and is held up by a cord or girdle called Kawngchilh.
Originally the warp was white and the weft was indigo, with white cotton used for the extra wefts, to create motifs.
Embellished Thihni
The Thihni is an exquisitely embellished puan of the Lai and Mara community of South Mizoram, from the Saiha and Lawngtlai districts. It was worn only by women of the chief’s family on ceremonial occasions. Fully ornamental, it features shells, beads, cowrie shells, tassels and has green beetle wings hung at the fringes. Apart from the heavy embellishments this puan comes with very intricate motifs all over the cloth.
- As told to Akhila Ranganna