Food

South Africa’s purple trail

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The Hindu Weekend

Nederburg cellarmaster Andrea Freeborough on her seven tiers of wine, and what the country’s best trails have to offer

During my early days of wine writing, I attended a South African winemaker’s dinner at a restaurant in town. South Africa wines were making a small but determined entry into India, and I was intrigued. When the young tousled-haired winemaker — more hipster Hollywood than wine-stained workhorse — opened his bottles, the wines (both white and red) were a revelation. Clean, fresh with fruit, perfectly assembled and long of finish, they had a distinct identity and were so delicious that it was easy to keep sipping. I did, as did the rest of the party. It ended up being an indulgent night, and the taste of the wines stay with me even today.

Those memories keep returning during chats with South African winemakers I’ve met since, like Nederburg’s cellarmaster, Andrea Freeborough, who visited India recently. The country continues to intrigue, though by now it has established itself firmly as one that is serious about its winemaking. So it is easy to see why Freeborough wears her love for her job on her sleeve. She enjoys describing the scents of the cellars that are her work space (“fruit, yeast, wood…”), and the demands each day at her job brings. “No two days are the same,” she says. “Blending today, racking tomorrow, travelling the next… It’s exciting. It keeps me on my toes.”

Mapping wineries
  • Durbanville Wine Route: Guests can experience exceptional wines made from cool climate fruit. Durbanville Hills (20 minutes from Cape Town) is my favourite stop. It also has a lovely restaurant (with panoramic views of Table Mountain and Table Bay) offering guests stunning views
  • Stellenbosch Wine Route: This is a well-known route situated in the heart of the Cape Winelands. A stop at Die Bergkelder, the home of Fleur du Cap wines, as well as at Alto, a producer of fine red wines, is highly recommended. For people who enjoy sparkling, the House of JC Le Roux is the ideal stop
  • Paarl Wine Route: This has to be my favourite, since Nederburg is part of this route. Here guests can enjoy a tour of the winery, museum and the original Manor House that was completed in 1800, which today also houses The Red Table restaurant. We also offer various tasting options in our visitors’ centre, and a wide selection of wines and styles for tasting in a lovely setting

Raise your glass

Freeborough says she has known what she wanted to do right from the age of 14, when she saw a photo of a vineyard in a magazine. Today, she makes wine that wins accolades for her country and her company. The 226-year-old company has been racking up an impressive array of awards — 127 in 2016 alone, including being named Drinks International’s 36th most admired wine brand in the world.

Today South Africa’s wines have firmly entrenched themselves among Indian wine lovers. Its wine industry is successfully working to shed its ‘cheap and cheerful’ image, to produce award-winning wines that offer a diversity as varied as the rainbow nation itself. Clean, fruity, single varietal wines occupy shelf space along with Old World-style blends. There’s something for everyone: a win-win situation for any wine traveller.

In India, Nederburg only sells a portion of its extensive portfolio. To taste them all, come to South Africa, says Freeborough. “We have seven tiers of wine: from easy drinking fruit driven vintages to high-end hand-crafted ones. Walk through the facilities, do a tasting, visit our Manor House and dine at our restaurant Red Table, where we have a wonderful menu of dishes that pair well with our wines.”

By the grape

South Africa is creating a formidable reputation for itself for quality production. Freeborough agrees. “It is known for producing quality as well as value wines. We have so many varieties: noble grapes and Mediterranean varieties. This diversity appeals to people wanting to try different wines.” My own favourite includes their Chenin Blanc, a white grape that South Africa has made its own — dominating the Stellenbosch, Swartland and the Coastal Region, and creating pure fruit-driven wines made in a variety of styles, from age-worthy oaked versions to sweet dessert wines. The country’s indigenous red grape, Pinotage, is another favourite, one I consider under appreciated for what it is.

Meanwhile, before she can head back to her warm, scented cellars, Freeborough is travelling the world, meeting people in her role as ambassador for Nederburg, hosting wine dinners and talking about the country and its wines, giving tips on where to travel and how to pick the best wine and dine options. “In my work I don’t just sell a product, I promote a lifestyle,” she concludes.

Printable version | Sep 1, 2017 7:10:06 PM | http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/south-africas-purple-trail/article19601856.ece