There’s something intrinsically thrilling about off-roading in the jungle during the monsoon — the petrichor, the never-ending thickets of foliage and the symphony of the wild. Pench National Park in Madhya Pradesh is teeming with greenery at every nook, courtesy the intermittent rain, and the occasional sun presents a surreal dimension to the forestry.
It’s 5.30 am and there’s a peaceful stillness as we lodge ourselves in the Maruti Gypsy. Having done my fair share of rides in these, I settle myself in a seat that will provide a panoramic vantage point, while still being safe from whatever flora or fauna may fly into my face.
The Gypsy roars to life and the post-rain richness of the soil sinks further into the ground as we make our way into the village of Kohka. A flurry of black drongos or bhujanga dizzy themselves in flight above the already busy rice fields filled with chattering women. The air is free of pollution, filled with freshly-cut greenery from the fields and cow dung from the hordes of cattle ahead.
It doesn’t take long to reach the village. The air changes, as does the path; a flatter road, the smell of fresh mud, as well as the aroma of morning cooking routines. Toddlers scamper out of their house at the sound of our vehicle to wave at us. We slow down, as we patiently manoeuvre around the cattle that eye us with disdain. The road is lined with pottery — chai cups, piggy banks and curry pots — all shining wet with freshness. The houses are low and painted with bright colours. Bleating goats frolic about, adding a new texture to the sound of the laughing women. It’s as though the place is stuck in a time warp — until you spy the satellite dishes and peek into the houses and see a blaring television.
Twenty minutes later, with Kohka behind us, we arrive at a small roadside building and pick up our guide for the day: a young man who introduces himself as Anil and is dressed in the traditional khakhi of rangers. He perches himself in the front of the Gypsy and points to a well-disguised wheel-trodden path going into the jungle; we follow into the thickets.
It darkens immediately and the chill changes to an enclosing humidity. The ground crunches beneath us and the switching of gears is the only rumble we hear. There’s a well-rehearsed intelligence in the way Anil leans out of the window to absorb the sounds of our surroundings. He points to the trees and we see a troop of Grey Langurs wreaking noisy havoc in the treetops. They call to each other in a combination of barks and grunts. We carry on and suddenly Anil signals for a stop. He silently points to a muddy basin to our left, which has a single tiger paw-print. The massive size of it, according to Anil, indicates a fully-grown tiger. We come to realise the monkeys’ calls had signalled to the tiger, which had been lounging in the mud, to clear off.
We carry on, crestfallen. Anil shares the tiger definitely saw us, examining the print — and that is the enthralling beauty of the jungle; we’ve probably been sighted by a spectrum of creatures, but will only really see one or two species ourselves. We can hardly blame animals for avoiding humans this way; our impact upon the vital corridor of the jungles across India has been devastating to their ecosystems.
Fifteen minutes later, we arrive in a clearing next to the glittering Kohka Lake in Teliya. Panoramic views of flat lands and of the jungle, teamed with the calls of Indian pittas and shrikes, reminds me of the far-too-few protected areas in our world. And I just know, going back to the city is going to be a real drag.
What to do there
Safaris in the peak season are a must at the 1,179 sq-km Pench Tiger Reserve that is home to world-famous tigers such as BMW, Collared Tigress and many others. Pench is home to a huge biodiversity of birds and reptiles too.
Mingling with the welcoming tribal communities of Turiya, Teliya and Kohka includes opportunities to learn the original way of making pottery.
Astro-photography is a major pull for those looking to see the stars our city skies hide so well.
How to get there
Pench National Park’s nearest town is Nagpur. While those from Bengaluru, Mumbai and Delhi can reach Nagpur airport through direct flights, those from Hyderabad can take the Nagpur-Secunderabad Express that offers a comfortable 10-hour overnight journey, followed by a 100-km drive along the expansive NH44. Pench National Park is located in the Seoni and Chhindwara districts of Madhya Pradesh.
The writer was at Pench National Park at the invitation of Kohka Wilderness Camp.