VinExpo 2017, the four-day high-intensity, high-energy wine show, concluded its business last month, in one of Europe’s most intense heatwaves. Nonetheless, the gigantic kilometre-long hall in Bordeaux’s Parc des Expositions was bursting at the seams with visitors (50,000+) exhibitors (2,300+) and media (1,000+), braving the heat to connect, consolidate and yes, celebrate. For, with some of the world’s most stunning chateaux and elegant restaurants a stone’s throw away, attendees wound up the day’s business to go on to party. Vinexpo is arguably the best wine trade fair for trend-spotting. Wine and spirits producers await this bi-annual schmoozefest to make important business announcements, launch new products and generally make a splash for their brands. So what was new this time? Plenty. As I traversed the halls (and you really do need a map) with beautifully assembled stands and colour-coordinated designer pavilions of wine producers, countries and regions, several things stood out.
1. The weather is a biggie: One of the big-ticket symposiums was on climate change, helmed by wine media powerhouse Wine Spectator, and the stellar line-up on stage (Spanish winemaker- author Miguel A Torres, Italian winemaker Gaia Gaja, Harvard physicist John P Holdren, etc) sounded the alarm against the backdrop of the Paris Accord. Climate change will affect everyone and everything — even wine. High-sugary, high-alcohol and tasteless wine is what we might get in a few years if things don’t improve.
2. Bio’s the buzzword: Centrestage at the expo was a large hall festooned in green, named WOW! (World of Organic Wines), featuring over 200 wine producers offering visitors a sniff and sip of their organic and natural wines. While these producers are not rich or famous, their vintages are making a big splash everywhere. Judging by the huge crowds, organic/biodynamic/natural is here to stay. I love Querciabella from Tuscany and their delicious wines are available in India (₹3,000 onwards). More are bound to follow soon.
3. Spain, country of honour: What’s not to love about Spain? Great food, amazing wine regions, and restaurants bristling with Michelin stars and dynamic chefs. All this found focus in their bright red pavilion, and at a special evening party overseen by culinary superstars Ferran Adrià and José Andrés and their team of chefs. Heat or no heat, 1,500 eager invitees thronged the glamorous Palais de la Bourse to watch Flamenco and drink wines from Rioja, Ribera and Catalunya, made by over 100 hand-picked Spanish wine producers. The big hit of the evening — Canarian black pudding and sugared almond turrón from Tenerife Chef Juan Carlos Padrón of Ristorante El Rincon de Juan Carlos. I must say the crispy, spiced suckling pig’s ear by Madrid’s Chef Aurelio Morales was as unique a tapas as I’ve tasted.
4. Old wine, new passions: Ever tasted wines from Georgia, Croatia, Serbia, Greece, Uruguay and China? If not, this was your chance. These ancient regions for growing grapes are now grabbing headlines and worldwide curiosity, so their pavilions saw queues lining up to taste exotic sounding wines made from grapes called Saperavi, Assyrtiko and Plavac Mali. If ever there was proof that ancient cultures made good wine, it was here. Dry Georgian reds (Saperavi) topped the curiosity table, while the dry whites of Greece have already proven themselves. Not widely available in India yet, pick up a bottle on your travels for the price and novelty factor at least. Assyrtiko from €12 onwards.
5. In the spirit of things: Who says Vinexpo is only about wine? This edition saw a marked increase in the focus on spirits. The Irish pavilion featured their whiskey with an e (Teeling Brabazon, Walsh Whiskey), and interesting boutique gins (Gunpowder gin by Shed, with a hint of desi cumin with the juniper). Also there: high-end Siberian vodka (Taiga Shtof) tasted with Russian caviar, some Bordeaux-made gin (Moon gin) and whisky (Moon Harbour), cognacs, rum from Madagascar (Dzama), gin from Belgium (The Alchemist) and hey, gluten-free vodka (Tovaritch). Holding top slot in the popularity stakes was the well-ordered Japan pavilion with its exhaustive range of sakes and shochus. A great opportunity for wine lovers to try out the range of new spirits being launched. For me, the aged sake was the most memorable.
6. Riesling rises: The much revered (by critics) but under-appreciated (by buyers) grape saw its day in the sun with its very own Riesling Day. Everyone from master sommeliers to the big-name Masters of Wines rose to the occasion to extol its virtues. Germany held master classes and served a variety of Rieslings at its booth, with mini presentations thrown in. Very much the dernier cri of Vinexpo 2017, there was one for every wine lover: dry, sweet and everything in between. The revelation? The quality New World Rieslings.
7. Red, white, pink…. and orange: Looking for something beyond the red, pink and white wines on offer? Try orange! The latest fad in wines are the deep-hued, food-friendly orange wines (no, these aren’t cocktails) — big, bold and beautiful, usually by small, experimental producers. Wine cognoscenti tell us this isn’t a fad, but here to stay. If you’re really hip, try the orange wines of Georgia, made in traditional earthenware qvevris. Or try some from Italy, Georgia, Slovenia, US and France.
8. Glamorous bubblies: Among the many smart and sexy stalls, one must admit that Champagne rules fairly effortlessly. Whether you’re a fan of brut, rosé, vintage or blanc de blanc, the champagne houses were pouring in style. Hard to resist those gorgeous tulips of chilled bubbles, and riveting displays of magnums, jereboams and balthazars. Here was also an opportunity to get familiar with cooperative champagnes and some stunners from family-run small growers. Loved the Nicolas Feuillatte vintage rosés.