I have never been much of a sailor. Heaving boats, choppy waves and the prospect of fathoms of water below neither impress nor attract me. Over the years, I’ve noted that many of my recurring nightmares involve rubber dinghies and glass-bottomed boats. And yet here I am, sailing into the sea off the Algarve coast in Portugal, to see sea caves where, as the guide says rather picturesquely, the waves sometimes churn like the insides of a washing machine. Why would one subject oneself to this, the reader might ask? Here’s why. The famous red cliffs of the Algarve, ...
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