Life & Style

Breakfast back to the roots

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The Saturday morning meal at Prem’s Graama Bhojanam satisfies the craving for an enriching, truly desi experience

Though it was a Saturday, I had absolutely no problem waking up early to make the commute from Sanjay Nagar to Jaya Nagar, where the newly launched Prem’s Graama Bhojanam is located. That was where Bangalore Breakfast Walk had scheduled a walk-in breakfast.

Prema’s Graama Bhojanam has already become quite famous in Chennai for its millet-based menu, which strictly emphasizes on a no-sugar, no-white rice policy. The menu also incorporates other indigenous superfoods including niger seeds (utchellu), flax seeds (avisaebeeja), horse gram, as well as organic jaggery, in place of sugar.

As soon as I entered, I was immediately soothed by the rustic ambience with the Worli patterned walls and the cool stone-like floors. If not for the crowd, although it was a special occasion, the meal could have been savoured at leisure.

Yet, the sounds of cheery banter and excited exchanges, complete with elaborate menu descriptions being given to the walk participants from two young women, Smitha Yuvajith and Tina Avinash, who assist the restauranteur Mr.N.S.Krishnamoorthi, were drowned out by the meal.

It didn’t take long for the team to place the breakfast thali at my table, served in a large steel plate lined with a banana leaf.

I began with the pesarettu, a green gram dosa, an Andhra speciality, scooping generous amounts of the accompanying peanut chutney (my favourite chutney) into each bite. Then I proceeded to polish off the kambu (pearl millet or bajra) and the jola (sorghum or jowar) rottis with the same chutney. Though a little cold, my millet-loving system enjoyed every bite.

By then, the team served the thatte idlis. These were piping hot and exquisitely soft and most importantly, infused with palak and beetroot. The sight of green and pink idlies that were devoid of food colour, chemical additives (usually, baking soda) or even white rice, somehow brought back some hope in the food industry. The idlies, unbelievably, were made of varagu (or kodo millet). They were melt-in-the-mouth fluffy and were accompanied by an equally light tur dal sambhar that did little to enhance the flavour. The next victims on the plate were the delicious, satvik (energizing) bamboo rice upma and varagu pongal. The simple tadka was enough to bring out the rich, native flavours of the grains.

The hero of the meal, for me, was the ‘badass’ black rice pudding made with sticky, black rice and organic jaggery. The minute I had the first bite, I felt a strange sensation of ecstasy creeping into my system, as though it was really waking up just then.

“Black rice,” said Mr.Krishnamoorthi, conspirationally, in my ear, “is a rare grain and few know how to cook it right.”

The next few bites sealed the deal, providing enough serotonin to ensure I would have a good day ahead, regardless of what was thrown at me. By the end, I was happily stuffed and contentedly awaiting the customary cup of breakfast tea. Being Prem’s, they obliged with a cup of warm sukku coffee (made with dry ginger and jaggery), that was naturally caffeine-free and a digestive. What more could I ask for?

For details on Bangalore Breakfast Walks, visit facebook.com/bangalorebreakfastwalks/. Prem’s Graama Bohjanam is located at 32 A Cross, 2nd Main, 7th Block Jayanagar, (near National Public School). For details, call 7975101029.

Printable version | Jul 21, 2017 5:16:16 PM | http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/breakfast-back-to-the-roots/article19308627.ece