As we sip Irani chai and watch the world go by, Mohammed Mujahid Ali of Hotel Deewan remembers the enduring charm of the bazaar during Ramzan. “Three weeks ago, during Ramzan, this road was packed,” he recalls. “It was choc-a-bloc with people all around; some shopping, and others with an intention to have an experience of this unique bazaar,” he enthuses. Every year during the month of Ramzan, Old City attracts huge crowds. The Chowk-ki-Masjid lane leading to Charminar is popular among Hyderabadis as they fill up the lane during the holy month. The hotel which is located at Chowk-ki-Masjid evokes nostalgia for its patrons and brings shoppers and tourists.
Deewan was established in 1973 by Mujahid’s father Mohammed Ali Khan. “Unko logon ko khilaane ka bahut shauq tha, (He loved to feed people),” recalls Mujahid. With simple and tasty food and affordable rates, it attracted people from different strata. “The hotel became popular because of word of mouth,” he recalls adding how Irani tea was initially available for just 15 paise. “Now it comes for ₹12,” he smiles.
Although the hotel serves Osmania biscuits, bun, biryani, nahari and more, it is the combo of samosa and chai enjoyed by foodies. “During the monsoon season, people love to eat garam samosas and have a garam Irani chai,” he shares.
Mujahid points towards the main road to share that the hotel’s space has reduced due to road widening. “The front portion was big and there was a separate non-veg section. We had to give out the space because of road widening,” he states.
Deewan’s patrons are from different areas. “We have visitors from Mallepally to Banjara Hills,” he informs adding the rush is more during weekends. “People from nearby districts also come here during holidays and weekends. People from Gulbarga, Aurangabad prefer coming to Hyderabad than going to Mumbai. Charminar is their choice for wedding shopping as it is a tourist destination and also the stuff is available for affordable prices,” he adds.
If you sit at a table near the entrance, one can witness the chaos of a Hyderabad street. Two wheelers and autos zooming across as some passers-by saunter around looking at the shops. A little further is the towering structure of Charminar. Here the experience of having chai comes along with a peep into a typical Hyderabadi life.