A hug in a tumbler

I am a soup lover. And it’s been a while since I’ve had soup that touched my soul.

At the newly-launched Kovai Alankar Vilas I taste kozhi rasam (chicken soup) made to perfection. It turns out to be a hug in a steel tumbler; the soup is at the right temperature, and every sip energises me and stimulates my appetite.

After two servings of soup, lingering in happiness, I read the menu, which is crisp and straightforward, with dishes selected from various regions of Kongu. I settle for kothamalli prawns, pichipotta kozhi and muttaipaniyaram for appetisers.

The prawns are cooked to perfection. Then arrives the unassuming pichipottakozhi. A common dish in the Coimbatore and Salem region, it is shredded chicken marinated in ginger-garlic paste with spices that are stir-fried on low heat on a dosa kal. Over here, the dish is generously flavoured with pepper and fennel.

Chef Harshini, who runs the show at Kovai Alankar Vilas (KAV), says that the recipes for all of the unusual dishes in the menu came from grandmothers and her mother. Her grandmother’s secret recipe, the muttai paniyaram is made by adding a swirl of paniyaram maavu to eggs then whipping it together.

The mix is then fried in paniyaram moulds. Fluffy and golden yellow, the paniyaram is light and fluffy. Another unusual egg preparation, more milagai kalaki, is worth a try.

Trained to become a pastry chef at Le Cordon Bleu London, Harshini draws inspiration from her mother, Lakshmi Priya, an organic farmer and passionate cook, based in Pollachi.

“My great grandfather, Kaliappa Gounder, launched Hotel Alankar Grande, which was Coimbatore’s first boutique hotel way back in 1965. Two years ago, my mom launched her restaurant, 10 Biriyani Mandi, in Coimbatore, and inspired by her, I launched this one,” she says.

Kongu cuisine is known for its subtle spices and focuses on healthy cooking; therefore, there are few dishes that are deep-fried.

Harshini sources some of the ingredients from their organic farm in Pollachi, and also uses cold-pressed oil for cooking. Priya is the consultant for KAV, and all the condiments and masalas are prepared by her.

Interestingly, smaller portions (60 to 90 grams) of gravy with pieces of meat are served at the restaurant. “Our USP is this concept where we would like to provide a complete non-vegetarian meal experience. Therefore, we offer a vegetarian meal at ₹95 (lunch only). Customers can order small portions of chicken, mutton or fish gravy along with it, which will be affordable. At the same time, they can try two or three varieties,” says Harshini.

For the main course, I opt for the mutton semiya, and vellabiryani or chicken garlic biryani. The well-cooked mutton is stir-fried with condiments. Steamed semiya is then added and gently mixed with scrambled eggs. The dish is low on oil and easy on the stomach.

The unassuming Kongu-style vellabiryani, flavoured with shallots and garlic, is mildly spiced and flavourful.

Pollachi elaneer sharbat is perfect to wash down the hearty meal. Subtly flavoured with cardamom, it is a must-try.

In a city choked with biryani and Chettinad joints, KAV is a welcome addition.

With its casual ambience, this place is ideal for a family dinner or working lunch. Its strong point is its focus on healthy food at affordable prices, if you don’t mind the lackadaisical service.