Coonoor has seen a few changes since my childhood. That’s why I was excited to see the sign that said ‘Open Kitchen Pizzeria & Deli’ above the provision store at Bedford. A hot fresh-out-of-the-oven pizza sounded like an irresistible option in the cool mountain air.
Since I had heard that the place was quite small, I called ahead to make a reservation. The owner, Priyak Mitra, promised to have a table ready for lunch. Despite the sign’s visibility, it’s not until you climb the short steep stairway that one actually catches sight of the narrow rectangular space that houses just four wooden tables and benches. The bright red door sets the tone for the pop culture vibe. Movie posters and other fun frames make it a cool place to hang out. The menu is designed with a blackboard-and-chalk effect and the options, though limited, are extremely appealing.
Since we had a recommendation for a‘bacon bomb’ pizza, we ordered one along with two others: pepperoni and bell peppers. The opening in the wall opposite allowed a view of the kitchen and it was great to see the pizzas being made fresh on order.
The pizzas came fast, served on pine wood bases along with paper plates and napkins. Steel cutlery was also available. Both the pepperoni and bacon pizzas were excellent. The whole wheat thin crust base was baked to the right level of crispness; the edges were just beginning to curl and char. It felt light despite the high-calorie pork toppings. The veggie pizza, though well cooked, lacked flavour. Moments later, Priyak came by to apologise because his chefs had forgotten to add olives and jalapenos. By then, we had doused it with herbs and chilli flakes so it didn’t matter.
Another round of the non-veg pizzas later, it was dessert time. A bigger black board on the wall has the names of dishes that are not on the menu. I learnt later that these were made by Priyak’s wife, Pixie, at home and served depending on the availability of the ingredients. I love a traditional apple and pastry dessert and the apple tart looked golden and appetising. After the first mouthful (which I absolutely loved), I have to say that in order to fully appreciate a caramel of this intensity one needs a more aware palate. The sugar syrup had been boiled until the stage when it starts to turn slightly bitter before being added to the fruit. It was paired with a sweet scoop of vanilla ice-cream. Much to our amusement, my mother — who enjoyed her fresh mango ice-cream to the last bite — suggested that they needed to reduce the generosity of their quantity. The eggless strawberry ice-cream was equally delicious.
The couple moved to Coonoor just four years ago. According to Priyak, it seemed the most idyllic setting for a journalist much of whose work was online. Passionate about cooking, he earlier ran a beach shack in Goa. He is conscientious of where he buys his groceries and does not compromise on quality. Plans are afoot to swap the sandwiches on his menu with wholesome burger options.
Since setting up the pizzeria, Priyak says his social life has taken a nosedive but he’s happy with what he’s been able to achieve doing what he loves!
Quick facts
Where: Open Kitchen, 27 Simrath Villa, Staines School Road, Bedford, Coonoor 643101. Call 9823102971 for reservation
When: 12.00 noon to 9.00pm Closed on Thursdays
What: Pizzas, sandwiches and desserts. Custom-made vegan pizza options are available on request
Meal for two: ₹850 approx